Kochi Prefecture

After the humidity and endless heat of Tokyo summers, I always am very ready for the autumn season to arrive. The cooler temperatures encourage one to plan hikes to see the trees turn their photogenic golds and reds and eat all the seasonal delights. Most folks think of fall in Japan as the autumn foliage in Kyoto or the blazing mountainsides in Tohoku, but my thoughts go directly to Kochi in Shikoku. Despite its blissfully remote vibe, it is quite accessible from the Kansai region via a fast bullet train ride to Okayama and a scenic ride over the Oseto Bridge on the Dosan Line (or, if you are a bit adventurous, an overnight journey on the Seto Sunrise, a sleeper train that regularly departs from Tokyo Station, dropping you off in Okayama). Early to mid-November is the best time to visit for a long weekend dedicated to the pleasures of the palate and some outdoor adventures surrounded by golden leaves. I tend to organize my trips to arrive at Kochi Station just before 10:00 on Saturday. A 15-minute walk from the station, meandering through the Obiyamachi shopping arcades, is my traditional first stop of the day: Mephistopheles. The whimsical,…