Nagoya Festivals

Each year, on the third of February, harried fathers across Japan put on paper demon masks and are pelted with roasted soybeans by their children, who cry, “Oni wa soto, Fuku wa uchi!” (Demon out, Fortune in!) until dad flees out the front door into the night air. Or turns on his children to teach them what comes of wasting delicious soybeans, although strictly speaking, this is regarded as unorthodox. This is Setsubun, traditionally marking the first day of spring. You’ll see packets of soybeans and the masks prominently displayed in supermarkets in the days leading up to February 3, and it’s good fun at home, especially for younger children. With the Kansai area, Hiroshima also shares the tradition of eating a large makizushi roll while facing a lucky direction, which changes from year to year depending on the Chinese zodiac. You may also be surprised to see doorways adorned with the heads of sardines impaled on twigs of holly, yet another way of rendering the home unappealing to a possible demonic incursion. But temples and shrines across Japan also hold Setsubun observations, and it can make for a fun trip. There are many places to see Setsubun celebrated publicly,…